SARDINES, SCHNITZEL, AND THE SOUND OF LAUGHTER AT GIACCO’S

words maisie jane Daniels

I arrived at Giacco’s in a mild panic - delayed by a web of tube closures - but any fluster quickly melted as soon as I turned onto Blackstock Road. Even before I saw the place, I could hear it: the hum of conversation, bursts of laughter, the kind of lively clinking that promises a good time. Giacco’s has that rare thing - an instant, easy warmth.

Inside, the 20-seater space glows with candlelight and chatter. It’s intimate but never stiff, the kind of place where you can sit at the bar and watch your cocktail being shaken, stirred, or otherwise performed for you. Staff float around with that rare blend of confidence and kindness - you get the feeling they’re genuinely happy to be part of what’s happening here.

Since opening in 2023, Giacco’s Bar has become one of Highbury’s best-loved neighbourhood haunts. Its Italian-leaning menu and low-intervention wines are the backbone, but from September 2025, the bar began something new - a rolling chef residency programme designed to spotlight rising stars in London’s hospitality scene.

Currently at the helm is Jemma Harrison - a North Londoner with Suffolk roots and a CV peppered with heavy-hitters: Western’s Laundry, Camille, Koya and Jolene. After years in other people’s kitchens, she’s stepped out with Kaunter, her own project, serving at Giacco’s until early December.

Now, to the good stuff. If, like me, you’re tickled by a pickle, the deli-style snacks will keep you happy while you sip. I started with home-cured sardines, before moving on to the standout chicken schnitzel “Kiev”. It’s a generous supreme cut, coated in golden panko and served on the bone. The real magic, though, is in that molten green garlic butter, already half-melted into the plate by the time it reaches you.

Then came the red bisque gnocchi with dressed crab - a dish that could’ve gone heavy, but didn’t. The gnocchi had a crisp edge (none of that mouth-glue business), and the sauce was deep, savoury, slightly sweet. A clever touch: the use of leftover potato skins, a small but satisfying nod to the kitchen’s sustainable practices. These are plates made for sharing, though I’ll admit I didn’t want to.

Harrison’s food fits Giacco’s perfectly - simple, thoughtful, and full of personality. There’s no pretence here, just flavour, charm, and the joy of good company.

Catch Kaunter at Giacco’s until 6 December 2025, open Tuesday to Friday from 5–11pm and Saturdays from 1–11pm.

Book ahead, or just turn up and squeeze in at the bar - chances are, you’ll want to linger.