WORDS LESSIE MCCARTHY
London Fashion Week is back, and Autumn/Winter collections never looked so good. Luckily if you missed it, we have you covered. Read below to get your essential overview of some of our favourite shows, including debut collections and up and coming designers. From Paul Costelloe to the emerging Aimee Joyce, you can read all about the highlights here.
Showcasing her debut collection at London fashion Week, Aimee Joyce encompasses the 50’s silhouette to fit the modern, powerful sensual woman. To wear Aimee Joyce is to wear timeless decadence, suitable for black tie or boardrooms. This collection is filled with body hugging silhouettes, layers of frills and classic neutral tones. If you want feminine sensuality enhanced by subterranean Soho, this collection is the one for you.
For Costelloe’s autumn/Winter collection, his inspiration came from the renaissance and Tudor period, as well as the tailoring of lavish tweeds from northern and southern Ireland, shown through the colours you see in this collection consisting of reds, blues and dark browns. Paired with exclusive Costelloe prints, pure wools and unique marl – twist knitwear in ochre tones.
In the words of Virginia Wolfe “For most of history, anonymous was a woman”. This quote inspired the signature quality, manufacturing and radical transparency of SoHuman’s Autumn/Winter collection. Throughout history, men have dictated society. This show brings the spotlight to women, with the use of womanly and gentle materials colours and silhouettes. Traditional feminine styles like bows and backless clothing are seen constantly throughout this range, as well as figure hugging shapes, accentuating the female physique.
This Autumn/Winter collection named Venus in Furs after the book by author Leopold von Sacher-Masoch, plays with the idea of a matriarchal society. Attempting to challenge the ideals and connotations surrounding the words goddess and Venus, Yuhan Wang gives us a feminine display of her knitwear, faux leather and prints. This is demonstrated through the enhanced feminine silhouettes, complimenting the female figure.
Selby’s Autumn Winter collection this London Fashion week showed us a quintessentially British range, from models, to colours, to clothing. The earthy tones of this collection paired nicely with the outdoor replication of the show itself. The organic linens and cottons of beige, ecru, and off-white have been used throughout, nodding to the styles of attire used by expressionist artists in their studios, as well as the motif of utility through hanging pockets and aprons, highlighting the direct reference to the cut out technique.
A standout show from London fashion week this year is Labrum’s collection. Combining archives from the V&A with West African Sierra Leone tribes Mende and Kissi resulted in a masterpiece of culture and contradiction. The vast colour palette of this collection could not be missed, and neither could the strictly rigid yet flowing tailoring of these pieces. With a focus on collaboration, connectivity and consciousness, Labrum’s gifted us a unique, thoughtful and inspired collection.