WORDS CRISTIN PROCTOR ROONEY - PHOTOGRAPHY BEX FAHEY
As London Fashion Week unfolds, the city once again cements its status as a melting pot of creative expression, where the boundaries between art and fashion blur in a spectacular way. No debut embodied that fusion more vividly this season than LEM’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at the Royal Academy of Arts.
The anticipation was palpable as guests arrived at the historic venue, welcomed with glasses of Prosecco at the foot of its grand staircase. Georgian-born Creative Director Pridon Niguriani had chosen the perfect setting for his London debut - a celebration of artistry, sustainability, and the transformative power of repurposed design.
THE RISE OF LEM: FROM SAFETY MANAGEMENT TO RUNWAY MASTERY
The name “LEM” means “lion” in Svan, the ancient language of Svaneti, Georgia, home to the brand’s founder. At 53, Niguriani’s path to fashion has been unconventional. Originally working in safety management, he discovered his talent for design out of personal necessity.
Having loved clothes since childhood he started the brand because he couldn’t find pieces that fit his vision. Working with a tailor to bring his designs to life, people soon started asking for them and that is how the brand's journey began.
After making waves at Ukrainian and Milan Fashion Weeks, LEM’s arrival in London marked a major milestone.
“I’ve been to London many times, I started here,” Niguriani said. “Every time I visit, I discover more. It’s full of heart. Walking the streets, I get charged with emotion and inspiration. The street style here is unmatched; it drives me to do new things. London’s audience is also the best, there’s no playing it safe here. You get real engagement from the fashion world. The society here is amazing.”
As guests took their seats in the museum’s upstairs gallery, the stage was set for a show that would redefine the relationship between fashion and art.
THE COLLECTION: AN ARTISTIC MANIFESTO
As an upbeat remix of FKA Twigs’ cellophane filled the room, the first model emerged, signalling the start of a collection that was an artistic tour de force. Hand-painted jackets adorned with images of lions, tigers, and dogs set the tone, while models wore theatrical makeup of smudged blue eyeshadow and crimson lips, transforming them into living canvases. Some walked with their heads framed by easels and ornate photo frames, a literal embodiment of art in motion. This season, the inseparability of art and fashion is a dominant theme, and Niguriani fully embraced it.
“This collection is deeply connected to art. I have many friends who are painters, and we realised how much we have in common, the creative process is very similar. That’s what led to this collaboration. Most of the jackets are hand-painted, which takes a lot of time, but merging clothing with art was essential. We even incorporated sculptures into the show to push that intersection further.”
The collection’s colour palette echoed an artist’s studio with primary colours dominating; bursts of deep red, electric yellows, and greens, contrasted against black, cream, and gold. Silk dresses featured hand-drawn patterns, while unconventional fabrics and tailoring added depth. Luxurious floral jacquards and embroidered silk fringes nodded to both traditional Georgian attire and modernist influences. Tailored coats, structured circular hats, and oversized jewellery that chimed with each step added layers of theatricality.
The opulent surroundings of the Royal Academy heightened the impact, with its blue gallery walls, ornate ceilings, and chandeliers framing the models like figures stepping out of the canvases around them.
SUSTAINABILITY AS A CORE ETHOS
Beyond artistry, LEM is defined by its commitment to sustainability. Niguriani is passionate about rejecting mass production in favour of repurposing and reducing waste.
“Sustainability is at the heart of my brand,” he said emphatically. “I position myself as an ethical designer. I think about everyone who might be affected by my work - the people, the environment. I refuse to participate in mass production; I hate it. Instead, I source materials carefully, finding small remnants in stores and turning them into clothes. If I don’t have enough, I create patchwork pieces. We eliminate waste wherever possible, even replacing paper packaging with fabric handbags.”
Niguriani’s repurposing philosophy extends to accessories. As he spoke, he excitedly displayed objects from the collection - a gold trophy transformed into a handbag, an egg-shaped ornament reimagined as a purse.
“This used to be a table decoration,” he grinned, holding up the newly crafted accessory. “Now, it’s a purse you can take out clubbing tonight. I go to decoration shops, strip down chandeliers, and make them into new items. So many things can be converted into something beautiful.”
THE FUTURE OF LEM
What sets Niguriani apart is not just his ability to merge art and fashion but his warmth and passion. While many designers remain elusive post-show, he took time to thank his models, pose for photos, and speak enthusiastically about his work for this interview. His dedication to sustainability and creativity is a refreshing counterpoint to an industry often driven by excess.
Having delivered one of the most visually arresting collections of the season, it’s clear that LEM is a brand on the rise. Under Niguriani’s visionary leadership, transforming everyday objects into wearable masterpieces, LEM is positioned to become a major force in the fashion world.
As London Fashion Week continues to champion bold creativity, LEM’s debut stands as a testament to the enduring power of fashion as an art form. The brand has painted its vision onto the fabric of the industry, and the world is taking notice.
