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BIANCA SAUNDERS AUTUMN/WINTER 2019 words Andrea Ward - images Eve Power for Bianca Saunders

Emerging designer Bianca Saunders is one to be watched closely as her contemporary aesthetic is infused with experiences she has had and the influences her family and close friends have on her as a creative. The London born and bread menswear designer graduated with a Master of Arts degree from The Royal College of Art and since then, has been establishing herself as a respectable and serious designer.

For Autumn/Winter 2019 Saunders explores the themes surrounding the black male identity looking at the space where they feel most comfortable and safe; their bedrooms. She looks into this space where men find themselves being real and vulnerable eliminating all the pressures of being who the world expects them to be in the outside world. By entering this close and intriguing space, Bianca draws her attention to vulnerability and self-expression. The collection, titled Unravelling, examines the feelings men face when inside their safe spaces. She looks at the construction of identity and individuality and how those things can be translated into clothing, from their construction to the styling that follows.

As the main character, Bianca puts the black male under the light focusing on the experiences they have and emotions they feel as well as the relationship between them and their pals. The common idea of hyper-masculinity is challenged by Saunders as she mergers masculine and feminine elements to create a softer view of the once rigid and unchangeable ideology. Vulnerability becomes the main factor blurring the lines between these two opposing forces.

Autumn/Winter 2019 also sees a series of subtle elements that add a sexual feel to the collection without becoming vulgar. Saunders focused on the twisted seams, shirring, and elasticated techniques to create a bounce-back effect which are elevated and enhanced by the mesh detailing. The final composition is an array of silhouettes that explore the male body while offering a strong and cohesive line.

Words: Andrea Ward

Images: Eve Power for Bianca Saunders


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