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words Filipe Phitzgerard - images courtesy of YMC

Heritage British label YMC (You Must Create) has become a staple name when it comes to contemporary fashion due to its perfect combination of fashionability and functionality since 1995. As part of its identity, YMC has been greatly influenced by British subcultures that have shaped the history of music and fashion throughout the decades and for YMC these have become a central point of reference when it comes to their own creations. For Spring/Summer 2020 YMC is drawing inspiration from the deep universe that created the post-punk fashion movement of the early 1880s; a time in history that saw many design houses catching up with the 'anarchy' trend that had been boiling up from the last leg of the 1970s. At the time, military and bondage elements were introduced and incorporated into the day-to-day fashion and became more wearable as they were combined with other pre-existing elements of fashion design.

By looking at this time in history, YMC has unveiled an SS/20 collection that plays with these same elements but in a subtle and functional way, YMC has become known for. This season is presented in a fresh format constructed from the combination of silhouettes and colour palette and reimagines classic looks while as well being able to update and upgrade some more familiar pieces. The purposefully mismatched tartan adds a feeling of anarchy, driven from the ideology of the punk subculture, while the floral embroidery which is seen on the shirts and Harrington’s add a new layer of young romanticism. The contrast creates depth and meaning to each and every piece while allowing the consumer to build their own personal style with freedom and precision.

The release, both for men's and women's, is the perfect translation of the YMC identity and stays true to their signature aesthetic. The collection sees fatigue trousers being embellished with punk-inspired zips while the Belgian camouflage has also received an update which creates a more interesting and current style. Strong throughout SS/20 is the scaled-up print which reveals a brushstroke-detailing that has been painterly taken on the iconic print. YMC's take on this army surplus means that the print is elevated and put in a position of sophistication and elegance while preserving its strong visual effect. This look is seen throughout from the swimsuits to the intarsia knits for both men and women. Another highlight piece is the oversized military bomber jacket which has been paired with the madras check balloon pants to create a subversive, and yet, quite relaxed silhouette.

The British label has been keen on creating diverse unisex fashion for some time, and yet, YMC manages to include some elements that will protect the individuality and singularity of their designs both for men and women. SS/20 sees the music references for the womenswear taking a slightly different turn with the soft rayon shirting, scalloped collars and tricolour perforated jersey in a kitsch 1950s floral print inspired by Frank Zappa’s wardrobe. Following the same thought, the retro sportswear pieces have been crafted to perfection and aim to exemplify the simplicity of the 1950s while featuring baseball vests, oversized rugby shirts, luxe leather coach jackets and relaxed fit Airtex tees.

The YMC Spring/Summer 2020 collection is NOW AVAILABLE in Stores and Online.


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