COSY UP: OUR TOP WINTER DINING SPOTS

WORDS RACHEL EDWARDS

Now that the days are shorter and the heating bills higher, there’s something especially comforting about restaurants that feel like a home away from home. As the temperature is set to drop, we find ourselves drawn to candlelit spaces with soft light, good music, and dishes that warm us from the inside out. From family recipes passed down through generations to modern twists on classic dishes, these restaurants give us a reason to dress up and leave the house this winter.

NOREEN

Noreen is the kind of place where you want to look at the menu before you arrive. It's also the kind of place where you could be blindfolded and forced to pick a selection of dishes at random and it would be impossible to go wrong. Tucked away in St Christopher's Place just off Oxford Street, Noreen translates to "two lights" in Arabic and is a celebration of connection and the traditions of the Arabian Peninsula. Well, let me tell you, after the overstimulation of hearing Eminem blasting from a rickshaw on Oxford Street as you dodge after-work shoppers, entering the calm oasis of Noreen feels like stepping into a warm bath after being caught in a blizzard.

Sat in the corner, we instantly felt relaxed and at ease, not least because of our smiley waitress who asked if we would like our candle lit (similarly to when a barista asks if I want chocolate on my cappuccino, I find it impossible to believe anyone is opposed to this). The menu is extensive, and it took us a while to get down to business and make any kind of decision on what to order. The good news is that everything is perfect for sharing, so you can order a variety of dishes and nibble on (or fight over) each. We kicked things off with their signature cardamon bun with date butter which was delicious and made me want to wake up in the morning and eat it all over again with a coffee. I am obsessed with aubergine in all of its forms, so there was no way I was skipping the badenjan, which is a mixture of aubergine purée, pomegranate tahini, miso aubergine, walnuts and chilli. Other highlights included the tamur salad which made me realise I should have been adding chopped dates to my salads a long time ago, along with the seabass nayye which tasted incredibly light and fresh and feels like it cancels out any fast food you've eaten in the last month.

Washed down with a "sour cherry club" cocktail or a glass of wine from their list - which spotlights emerging producers from Lebanon and the Eastern Med - you'll wish you had a bottomless stomach as you eye up the tables beside you. Every dish looks delicious, and the atmosphere strikes the perfect balance between relaxed and sophisticated. No matter how full you are, you must not leave without trying the tamur-o-harda, or in other words their warm sticky date cake. If there's one thing about Noreen is that it's intentional. From the food to the team to the decor, you can feel that everything is made with passion. We left feeling full and inspired, and ready to stock up on aubergines and dates.

BOTTEGA 35

Bottega 35 is Kensington High Street's latest Italian restaurant, and a great spot to get rid of the winter blues and transport you to the backstreets of Tuscany. Soft lighting and oak tables pay homage to the Tuscany's romantic, rustic nature and although I visited with a friend, it is definitely the sort of place you want to dress up and go on a date. We began with a couple of glasses of red wine, letting the restaurant's classical soundtrack set the tone for the evening. So many beautifully designed restaurants get the mood wrong with blaring pop which feels like background noise, whereas Bottega 35 uses music to enrich the experience and eases you into the night.

For starters, we ordered both the traditional bruschetta and the pesto version topped with ricotta and pistachios. The classic was our favourite - I am now on a mission to find out where they source their tomatoes. Though the pesto variation was indulgent and satisfying, it is the sort of dish that demands a good appetite or could be a great sharing starter. When it came to mains, I couldn’t resist the seafood pasta complete with clams and mussels, which was some of the best I've tried in a long time. My friend chose the seabass Bottega which was perfectly cooked and great if you want to opt for something healthier. You get the sense that Bottega 35’s kitchen favours simple, quality ingredients over flashiness, allowing the flavours to speak for themselves.

We ended the evening with their speciality: the Bottega tiramisu, along with the torta susana. The tiramisu stole the show, and although we were feeling full by this point, we managed to find room for both. Our waiter was amazing and had us laughing for the whole meal, and the atmosphere was so good that we completely lost track of time, realising that we had stayed far longer than we'd expected to. Bottega 35 has raised the bar for Kensington's eateries, and is the perfect spot to escape the harsh weather and experience delicious food in an intimate setting.

PLATAPIAN

Recently opened on Greek Street is Soho's latest addition to London's Thai dining scene, Platapian. The restaurant is the creation of Nam Parama Raiva, a third-generation restaurateur whose deep-rooted love of food compelled her to carry on her family's legacy. Born and raised in Thailand, Nam spent much of her childhood watching her grandmother and mother at work in the family's restaurant group, Patara. Now, she pays tribute to the women who sparked her passion for food through the creation of her very own restaurant.

Every detail at Platapian feels personal. The first thing you notice is the decor, which was designed by Nam's husband Grid Soonthornpusit and which captures the opulence of Thailand's traditional interior spaces. Soft lighting, stone washed walls and wooden ceilings create an atmosphere of homeliness. Adding to this is the black and white photos of Nam's family hanging on the wall which tell the story of the family's heritage.

The restaurant was bigger than I expected, and contains two floors. As a group we started by sharing a few starters, including the crispy baby squid which completely exceeded my expectations. The duck spring rolls were equally as good. In terms of mains, the yellow curry with crab meat stole the spotlight, and will be my go-to next time I visit. The side of morning glory was the perfect accompaniment to the creamier notes of the curry. The whole seabream in broth was another highlight and was beautifully cooked. And while we were certain we couldn’t manage dessert, I wasn't about to pass up on the chance to try coconut ice cream with fish flakes. I had absolutely no idea what to expect and honestly, I was pleasantly surprised. If you like the mix of sweet and salty you'll probably enjoy this too. In every dish and every detail, Platapian tells the story of Nam Parama Raiva’s heritage and acts as a beautiful continuation of her family’s culinary legacy.