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TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION SPRING/SUMMER 2020; BINARY CONNECTIONS words Filipe Phitzgerard - images courtesy of Tourne de Transmission

"The more they tighten their grip, the more we slip through their fingers." is how Tourne de Transmission's founder Graeme Gaughan has described his latest collection for Spring/Summer 2020. Known for its powerful and radical perspective of the world, Tourne de Transmission is a brand helping redefine contemporary streetwear from their design aesthetic to the conceptualization of hot-topic themes such as inclusion, politics, technology and human behaviour.

For their Spring/Summer 2020, Tourne de Transmission dwells on the theme of humanity’s aversion to binary relationships which we are all pushed into. The collection looks deeply at what it means to live in a world where data mining and our behaviour towards it define who we are or who we want the world to see. TDT explores our species’ activities and habits are herded into groups of data like pens of digital sheep where big corporations use our information to buy and sell our lives as they wish via source code or algorithms. This obscure relationship between us and the companies that 'control' our taste based on our behaviour online is the core theme of this coming season and sticks to the core TDT identity.

This collection stays true to the TDT signature aesthetic while delving even deeper into the design possibilities. Spring/Summer 2020 sees some familiar Tourne de Transmission shapes and silhouettes which have been perfectly reworked with new developments in tailoring structures, heavily washed vintage Japanese denim and through colour pops of mottled garment dying provided via a partnership with masters of the London dye scene, Stain Shade.

In order to elevate and enhance some of the best features throughout the collection a special focus on fabrication and form were introduced by using Italian nylons & leathers, paisley fabrics and over-dyed Japanese Denim, these were then layered against an icecream-esque palette of mint green, toffee and bubble gum. While blue-collar clothing icon, the humble denim jeans have been dissected to provide appliquéd pocket details to tops, bags and jackets while TDT signature webbing straps are omnipresent.

Tourne de Transmission's obsession with analogue technology is another strong feature highlighted throughout the collection as it sees prints and core messaging around how we are now more aware of these constraints and resistance is growing. Source code from Facebook (the worlds biggest offenders of data mining) is rewritten with TDT’s own messaging, and elements of CCTV images are also reworked in TDT signature analogue style.

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