NOISY OYSYER: WHERE STYLE MEETS SUBSTANCE

words maisie jane Daniels

Noisy Oyster - playfully named after that tongue twister we all stumble over - has quickly become my favourite new restaurant in London.

The idea was born from Madina and Anna’s love affair with the UK’s seafood culture, from boat catchers to fishmongers. But instead of recreating a traditional seaside spot, Noisy Oyster is a bistro of the future: fashionable, upbeat, and the perfect marriage of unpretentious charm with high-end flair.

Design-wise, it’s unlike anything I’ve seen before. Harry Nuriev, the New York and Paris-based founder of Crosby Studios, has created a space that feels intentionally unfinished yet beautifully deliberate. Housed in the historic Norton Folgate development, the restaurant embraces an “in progress” aesthetic - exposed ceilings, chunky pipes doubling as pillars, and gleaming metallic finishes that nod to fishing tackle and fishmonger counters. The result? Texture and light become the main characters in this futuristic stage. Even the toilets, with their chipped-off tiling, play into the concept. It’s daring, but it works. And can we talk about the music? Perfect volume. Why do so many restaurants still get this so wrong?

The food and drink are just as carefully considered. Shout-out to our waiter Ross, who somehow anticipated our cravings before we even voiced them, with spot-on wine pairings and gentle encouragement to order all three desserts (no regrets, even if we did waddle home).

Obviously, we had to try an oyster - it’s in the name, after all. My guest was a little squeamish about them raw, so we went for the Mini Maritozzo: deep-fried oyster's that I can only describe as nuggets dressed up with caviar and whipped ricotta (think of it as mayo and ketchup’s glow-up). I could have eaten a bucket of them, though my stomach might not have forgiven me.

From there, the menu kept impressing. The Hasselback potato (so easy to botch) was spot on: crispy, fluffy, and singing when paired with crème fraîche. The octopus with tomato felt like a perfect palate reset after my fried-food indulgence. For mains, we shared a tuna steak with pink peppercorn sauce, but the undisputed star was the grilled monkfish - buttery, tender, and perched on a roasted almond sauce that I wanted to drink straight from the plate.

Dessert caused a split decision. The salty churros with brown butter caramel, vanilla ice cream, and caviar were divisive - I found the salty-sweet clash a bit aggressive (my cheeks did that funny inside-turn thing), but my guest was in heaven, happily using his churro as a spade to shovel it all in.

All in all, Noisy Oyster is a stylish, sophisticated spot with lot of edge to keep it exciting - a place I’ll be back for an anniversary, a birthday, or maybe just to quietly demolish another round of Mini Maritozzo.

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