AN OBJECTIVE LOOK AT DANIEL FLETCHER & FIORUCCI'S NEW CHAPTER
words Filipe Phitzgerard - images courtesy of Daniel w. Fletcher & Fiorucci
British designer Daniel W. Fletcher is one of the names we hear a lot whenever the subject is fresh British menswear done with a real heart for the beautiful and delicate. Throughout the years, Fletcher has become a most sought for his unique perspective on menswear where he is able to explore boyhood beauty and vulnerability. Originally from the North West of England, Daniel relocated to London to study fashion design which soon enough led him into Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Burberry and Lanvin where he gained experience in the industry before starting his very own brand. Flecther's eponymous label was immediately a stand out as Opening Ceremony quickly snatched the opportunity of working alongside him and stocking his graduate collection. After that, the American clothing brand produced a capsule collection of eight of his designs for Spring Summer 2016.
Since the creation of his namesake label, Fletcher grew to become the epitome of the love affair between boyhood and fashion and that was perhaps the secret ingredient to his growing success among fashion enthusiasts as well as gaining the recognition of those in high places in the fashion industry. In 2018 Daniel w. Fletcher was one of the winners of the European Semi-Final of the International Woolmark Prize where he took part in the global final in 2019. But this wasn't the first time Fletcher's honest and captivating approach to design made him be recognised by the industry. In 2017 Daniel was nominated for the 2017 LVMH Prize as well as receiving the Future British Award supported by Boden. In 2016 the British designer was the recipient of the River Island X BFC Fashion Film Award 2016 for his fashion film, ‘Stay', and in 2018 he was named as one of Drapers 30 Under 30.
Daniel w. Fletcher for the Woolmark Prize photographed by Daniyel Lowden
Season after season Daniel Fletcher has delivered collections that are true to his identity as a designer and creative; often breaking the standard rules to create something more heartfelt and inspiring than the usual cold and unimpressive offerings we often see in the runways and marketplace around the world. Daniel is not afraid of being political and outspoken, yet, he does it in a way that doesn't cross the line and negotiates his true identity as a creative and what he loves to design and produce. Authenticity is one of the many adjectives we could attribute to him and without a doubt, we believe the history of design - especially menswear - is being defined with the help of this incredible designer.
In light of Daniel Fletcher's success and history, iconic Italian label Fiorucci has recently appointed him as their menswear artistic director; a move that for some is still to be fully understood, and yet, we can actually see how this could be just another success story. In deep and total honesty, this may not seem the most obvious partnership and, perhaps, that is exactly why this is just perfect. Fiorucci became famous for its outlandish and bold aesthetic in the 1970s where sex, glamour, and, self-indulgence were strong traits seen throughout their collections and became known as the 'daytime Studio 54' and this moment in the history of Fiorucci became the background and heart of Fletcher's debut collection for the Italian house.
When looking at the collection it is impossible not to identify the signature aesthetics of both brands (Fiorucci and Daniel w. Fletcher) which have been worked out smoothly and cohesively without bending too much to one side or the other. For those who know each of the brands, they would agree that this is not the most obvious pairing. Fletcher is known for sober more romantic creations that emulate boyhood, nostalgia, and tenderness while recognising emotional connections and physical desire. Fiorucci, on the other hand, is known for its out-there, bold and brilliant (with the occasional shine and sparkle) outlandish approach to fashion where the idea of hiding behind prudeness has been long thrown off the window. So if you look at it from this perspective you would agree that "this ain't an obvious pairing", however; this is where things get exciting. Both Fletcher and Fiorucci are moved by their own authentic minds and whether they stand on the same side or opposite extremes when it comes to creating fashion, the pairing is indeed a good match.
The debut collection is a great start for this unique journey as Daniel Fletcher has taken inspiration from the golden days at Fiorucci using it as the backbone of the collection. Exploring sex, glamour and hedonism for his debut, Daniel has chosen to feature Fiorucci’s signature splashy logo against acid-bright hues. He took inspiration from a series of sketches rediscovered in the brand's archive, while also including rare denim pieces which have been hand-painted by the legendary Keith Haring. The collection is flooded with pieces designed for a glam-party or glitterball from the oil-slicked, tight-hugging PVC trousers all the way to the stunning and super fun racing overalls. This high-light piece has been reimagined into something more functional without losing fashionability and sparkle so the consumer doesn't have to wait until nightfall at the club to wear this perfect piece. The jumpsuit has also been brightened up by a handful of meticulously-placed ‘Fiorucci’ patches while several other pieces seen throughout paid tribute to nightlife scenes.
As part of Daniel Fletcher's offering to this collection, tailored pieces are seen strongly throughout with flared trousers, overcoats and tuxedo jackets being just a few examples of what Fletcher can bring to the table. This is indeed a new move for Fiorucci and shows that they are ready to walk into a new direction, this being driven by the unquestionable expertise Fletcher presents. “I think it’s every designer’s dream to go into a brand with an archive this rich and be able to use it to create something new,” Fletcher says of his new appointment. “Fiorucci is not just about fashion, it’s about music and art and there’s a spirit that is unlike any other brand that makes it so special. For me, Fiorucci is a party brand and I wanted to capture some of that magic. This mix of silhouette, colour palette and references shouldn’t necessarily work together but somehow do in a strange, wonderful melting pot that frames my first collection for Fiorucci.” And just as both seem to be excited about this new venture we join them in excitement and expectation to what the future holds and we can't wait to see where this journey will lead on.
For more information on Daniel W. Fletcher and to shop visit danielwfletcher.com.
For more information on Fiorucci and to shop visit fiorucci.com.
MENSWEAR ARTISTIC DIRECTOR: Daniel Fletcher
PHOTOGRAPHY: Antonio Mingot
STYLING: Ben Schofield
HAIR: Jose Quijano
MAKE UP: Bobana Parojcic
SET: Chloe Solomon
WORDS: Naomi Pike
MODEL: Matty Rahill