FREEDOM, FANTASY + FASHION: MIN-JI KIM ON BUILDING A BRAND WITH HEART

PHOTOGRAPHY JASON JUDE - WORDS MAISIE JANE DANIELS

Held in London this week, the Fashion District Showcase spotlighted some of the most exciting emerging talent working in fashion today. Among them was Min-Ji Kim, the Korean-born, London-based designer behind MinJiKimStudio, whose emotionally charged collections explore themes of identity, belonging, nostalgia and transformation through textiles, knitwear and storytelling-led design.

With a Master's degree from London College of Fashion and a background in Textiles from RISD, Kim's work occupies a space between memory and fantasy, creating garments that feel deeply personal while leaving room for interpretation. Following her showcase presentation, F Word caught up with the designer to discuss her journey into fashion, the vision behind MinJiKimStudio, the realities of building an independent label, and why creating clothing that feels emotionally resonant remains at the heart of everything she does.

Maisie Daniels: What first inspired you to pursue a career in fashion design?

Min-Ji Kim: I didn't initially set out to pursue a career in fashion at all. My background was in textiles, and for a long time I was much more interested in materials than garments. I loved experimenting with texture, colour, and surface, but over time I found myself wanting to see those ideas on the body rather than as standalone textile pieces. Many of the concepts I was exploring naturally made more sense when worn and experienced through movement. I became increasingly curious about how fabric could interact with the body and how clothing could communicate emotion and identity. That curiosity eventually led me to pursue a Master's in Fashion Design at London College of Fashion, where I could finally learn pattern cutting, garment construction, and fashion development. It felt like a natural progression rather than a sudden decision, and it allowed me to bring together my love of textiles with a growing interest in storytelling through clothing.

MD: You hold a Bachelor's degree in Textiles from RISD and a Master's from the London College of Fashion. How did those experiences shape your creative outlook and approach to design?

MJK: I studied Textiles at RISD because it played to my strengths: texture, colour, material experimentation, and three-dimensional thinking. Interestingly, I originally applied as an Industrial Design student. During my foundation year, I was advised that my strengths might be better suited elsewhere, which completely crushed my nineteen-year-old self at the time. Looking back, it was probably the best advice I've ever received. Textiles taught me how to think through making. It gave me a deep appreciation for materials and encouraged experimentation without immediately focusing on a final outcome. I still approach fashion in that way today. Fabric is often the starting point for my collections, whether through knitting, printing, manipulation, or surface development.

At London College of Fashion, I learned how to translate those material explorations into garments. It expanded my understanding of silhouette, construction, and the relationship between clothing and the body. Together, those experiences shaped an approach that is both material-led and deeply intuitive.

MD: Can you talk us through the journey of launching MinJiKimStudio and the vision that sits at the heart of the brand?

MJK: MinJiKimStudio began quite organically. After graduating, I continued making work alongside full-time jobs because creating felt like something I couldn't stop doing. Over time, those individual projects slowly evolved into a larger body of work and eventually into a brand.

At the heart of MinJiKimStudio is a desire to create clothing that feels personal, expressive, and emotionally resonant. I want each collection to feel like a snapshot of a particular moment, memory, or feeling. The work often explores themes of identity, belonging, nostalgia, and transformation, but I never want it to feel overly literal. I prefer leaving space for people to bring their own interpretations and experiences to the garments.

MD: Your work is often described as surreal, tender and rebellious, with garments that feel almost like characters. How would you describe the world you're creating through MinJiKimStudio?

MJK: I think of the world of MinJiKimStudio as somewhere between memory and fantasy. It's a space where everyday observations become slightly distorted, exaggerated, or reimagined.

The garments often feel like characters because I tend to design with personality in mind. I imagine who they are, how they move, what emotions they carry, and how they exist within a larger narrative. There is usually a balance of softness and tension within the work. Some pieces feel delicate and nostalgic, while others feel more confrontational or playful. Together they create a world that feels familiar but slightly off-centre, almost like remembering a place rather than seeing it exactly as it is.

MD: Textiles and knitwear sit at the centre of your practice. What continues to draw you to these mediums, and what possibilities do they offer that other materials don't?

MJK: I've always been drawn to textiles because they feel incredibly intimate. They are often the first thing we physically interact with when we wear clothing, and they have the ability to evoke emotion before silhouette is even considered.

Knitwear particularly interests me because of its flexibility and sculptural potential. You can build texture, structure, and shape directly into the fabric itself rather than applying it afterwards. There is also something very human about knitting. It carries a sense of labour, time, and touch that I find compelling. Both textiles and knitwear allow me to blur the boundaries between material development and garment design. Rather than treating fabric as something separate from the garment, the two evolve together throughout the process.

MD: What story or emotion were you hoping to communicate through the pieces presented at the showcase?

MJK: The collection explored ideas around participation, belonging, and the ways we navigate different communities throughout our lives. I was interested in the tension between wanting to fit in and wanting to maintain a sense of individuality. Emotionally, I wanted the work to feel both vulnerable and optimistic. There is a lot of experimentation and playfulness within the collection, but underneath that there are also reflections on identity, memory, and personal growth. Ultimately, I hope people connect with the pieces through their own experiences rather than a fixed narrative.

MD: What was the experience of showcasing at Spitalfields Market like, and what did it mean to present your work in that environment?

MJK: It was very different from any showcase I had experienced before. What I loved most was how accessible it felt. People who happened to be walking through the market would stop, watch, and engage with the work, creating a very different energy from a more traditional fashion setting. It was definitely a little chaotic backstage, but in some ways that added to the atmosphere. There was an immediacy and spontaneity that made the experience feel alive. Presenting the work in a public space also felt fitting because I ultimately design for people and for real life, not just for images.

MD: Looking back on the showcase, was there a particular moment that felt especially rewarding or memorable?

MJK: One of the most rewarding moments was seeing people engage with the clothes in person. As designers, we spend so much time working alone in studios that it's easy to forget how the work will eventually be experienced by others. Watching people stop, look closely at the details, and react to the garments felt incredibly meaningful. It reminded me why I make clothes in the first place. Fashion exists through interaction, and seeing that connection happen in real time was something I'll remember for a long time.

MD: Many emerging designers are navigating an increasingly challenging industry. What have been the biggest challenges you've faced while building your label? And what advice would you give to someone hoping to launch their own brand?

MJK: One of the biggest challenges has simply been balancing creativity with practicality. Building a label requires wearing many different hats at once. You're not only designing collections but also managing production, finances, communications, logistics, and countless other responsibilities. Working with limited resources can be challenging, but it has also taught me how to be resourceful and creative. Many of the solutions I've developed through sustainability and deadstock sourcing have come directly from those constraints.

My advice would be to focus on developing a strong point of view rather than trying to follow trends or expectations. The industry is incredibly competitive, but your perspective is the one thing nobody else can replicate. Be patient with yourself as well. Building something meaningful takes time.

MD: And finally, what's your favourite F-word?

MJK: Freedom. To me, fashion has always been about freedom: freedom of expression, freedom of identity, and freedom to exist as your most authentic self. It's something I think about constantly both in my personal life and in my work, and it's a value that continues to shape how I design.