LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN'S SUMMERTIME SADNESS words Luca Mitchell
Fashion is entering a new age, one which reflects seismic socio-political changes to concepts of gender and sexuality; we call it fluidity. LVMH prize winner Ludovic de Saint Sernin embodies this new era with his gender-neutral collections that have caught the gaze of industry moguls since his debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2017. Since then Ludovic has explored some unique territories; his second outing took a trip into the world of Salvador Dali, and his latest S/S'19 being sensual as always, with a nod to sexual exploration and emotional exhibitionism.
Practically, Ludovic’s designs are wearable, with an aesthetic that is sumptuous and desirable. He is a tasteful provocateur, this latest collection “Summertime Sadness” having obvious yet subtly executed homoerotic overtones. Each look speaks to this vision; organic textiles composing each slender silhouette hold the model's bodies like they are serenading one another before the camera. Lace-up crotched flares, an ultra-kinky knitted jock strap, and sculpture like leather pieces form a web that brings together Ludovic Saint Sernin’s brand identity - erotic romanticism.
LDSS’s brand down to the finest detail invokes a freedom of expression, his ‘Dick Print Pants’ unashamedly set the tone for his work. His ideology as a designer entails a variety of bodily celebrations. Lay his S/S'19 presentation to bare and you will be provided with a wealth of messages: “It’s okay to cry” by Sophie is playing, transgender producer, artist, and champion of diversity. Pieces of his design are etched with words such as ‘lust’, and every piece touches the form with the intention of feeling wet.
Strip back the context, and LDSS addresses the sphere of sex through his creations alone. Each piece makes you feel a sense of carnal desire, maybe for more than just the garments. In this latest elope to Ludovic’s steamy paradise, we are greeted with a sheer wrap top, so well sculptured around the male form that it borders on art - it is, in itself, flirtatious. If there is one thing Ludovic de Saint Sernin does well, it’s breathing life into his collections, so that they may seduce both the wearer and those who observe them.